Seam:Properties of seam
A seam is the joining of two or more layers of fabric by stitching. Seams are used in garment construction to create the shape and structure of a garment. They can be made by hand or with a sewing machine and can be visible or hidden depending on the design of the garment.
Good appearance seams means that the stitches are correct and uniform in shape and they do not damage the fabric. Also, the fabric along the stitch line will stay smooth and there will be no gathering. Although gathering at seams is not permitted, sometimes gathering at seams is done intentionally for design purposes. Fabrics with different types of fibers and their different constructions use different techniques to create a good seam appearance. This is to ensure that the appearance of the seam remains intact during use or washing after the garment is made.
The seam will be more perfect if it maintains certain characteristics while the garment is in use. Seam properties refer to their strength, elasticity, durability, protection and special properties of the fabric, if any, such as water proofing or flame proofing etc. The essential properties of seams are discussed below:
Properties of seams
- Seam strength
- Seam slippage
- Seam ripper
- Seam elasticity
- Seam durability
- Seam appearance
- layer allowance
- Seam finishing
Seam strength refers to the ability of a seam to withstand stress without breaking or separating. It is essential to ensure that the seams are strong enough to withstand regular wear and tear. The strength of a seam depends on the strength of the thread used, the type of stitch and the number of stitches per inch. A high-quality seam should have a minimum strength of 50% of the strength of the fabric.
The strength of the seam should be equal to or slightly less than the strength of the fabric. This seam strength should apply to both length and width. If the strength of the seam is greater than the strength of the fabric, the case for unexpected additional force, the fabric may tear, which we do not expect.
Seam slippage occurs when fabric layers slide against each other, causing the seam to come apart. This is a common problem with fabrics that have a low coefficient of friction. The strength of a seam can be improved by using a proper seam construction technique and reinforcing the seam with additional layers of fabric.
Seam pucker is the puckering or gathering of fabric along the seam line. This occurs when the fabric is stretched or stretched during the sewing process. Puckered seams can affect the look and comfort of a garment. To prevent seam puckering, the fabric should be handled carefully while sewing and the tension of the sewing machine should be properly adjusted.
Seam elasticity refers to the ability of a seam to stretch and recover without breaking. This is essential for garments that require a high degree of flexibility and movement, such as sportswear and swimwear. Elasticity can be achieved by using stretchy fabrics or by using a stretchy stitch type, such as a zigzag stitch.
The force may cause the fabric of the garment to stretch, then the seam should also stretch with the fabric of the garment, and after the force is withdrawn, the seam should also return to its original position. With the fabric. This means, the elasticity of the seam must be equal to or greater than the elasticity of the fabric. Otherwise, the sewing thread may be cut in the seam. It should be noted that some fabrics or garments may stretch 100% or more.
Seam durability is a allowance of how well a seam withstand to repeated washing and dry cleaning. A quality seam should withstand at least 20 wash and dry cycles without tearing. Seam life depends on thread quality, stitch type and sewing technique.
Seam appearance is an important aspect of the overall appearance of a garment. A well-stitched seam should be smooth and flat, with no visible creases or creases. Seams should be even and staggered, with no loose or hanging threads. The appearance of the seams can be enhanced with the right sewing technique and using a matching thread color.
The seam allowance is the distance between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric. It is very important that the seam allowance is consistent throughout the garment as this will affect the fit and overall appearance of the garment. Typical seam allowance is 5/8 inch but may vary depending on garment type and sewing technique.
Seam finishing is the process of fixing and finishing the raw edges of fabric to prevent fraying and fraying. There are several techniques for overcasting seams, including zigzagging, over-seaming, and knotting. The choice of seam finishing technique depends on the type of fabric and the desired look of the garment.
Factors affecting properties of seam
There are several factors that can affect the properties of a seam
Fabric type: The properties of the fabric, such as its weight, weave, and stretch, can affect the strength and durability of the seam.
Thread type: The type of thread used, such as cotton, polyester, or nylon, can affect the strength, elasticity, and durability of the seam.
Stitch type: The type of stitch used, such as lockstitch, chainstitch, or overlock, can affect the strength, stretch, and appearance of the seam.
Seam construction technique: The technique used to construct the seam, such as plain seam, French seam, or flat-felled seam, can affect the appearance and durability of the seam.